Grooming & bathing7 min read
What to tell your dog groomer: a drop-off script for getting the cut you actually want
Most bad haircuts start with a good groomer and a vague sentence at the front desk.
By the Find My Kennel team. Updated
Short answer
Describe the cut part by part (body, legs, face, ears, tail, feet) with a length in inches for each, and bring a photo of the look you want. Then tell the groomer anything that changes how they should handle your dog: skin problems, recent surgery, lumps, medications, age, and how your dog reacts to nails, dryers and clippers. A label like “puppy cut” on its own is not an instruction, because it means different things in different salons.
Why “just a puppy cut” goes wrong
Style names are shorthand, and every salon has its own. Groomer software maker MoeGo defines a puppy cut as one consistent length all over, then warns groomers that the term varies so widely they should confirm the blade length before starting. One shop’s puppy cut leaves an inch; the next leaves a quarter of that.
The same goes for “teddy bear,” “summer cut” and “just a trim.” To you, a trim means a little off the ends. To a groomer looking at a coat full of tangles, it might mean taking it short enough to get under them. Neither of you is wrong. You just used a word that carries no length.
The fix is to stop naming the style and start describing the result: how long, where, and what shape. Kim Campbell Thornton’s guide on Vetstreet quotes a groomer who suggests plain-language requests like “half off,” “only trim up the edges” or “very short like a Lab.” Those are far harder to misread than a style name.
How do I describe the haircut I want?
Go around the dog from nose to tail and give each area its own instruction. Groomers think in zones, so this is how they will plan the cut anyway.
- Body: the length you want on the back and sides, in inches. If you are not sure, measure your dog’s coat now and say “about half of this.”
- Legs: the same as the body, or left fuller. Fluffy legs on a short body is a common look and needs saying.
- Face and head: round and full, short and neat, or a top knot left long. Say whether you want the eyes cleared.
- Ears: left long, trimmed to the leather, or shaved on the inside for hygiene.
- Tail: left as a plume, trimmed to match, or tidied only.
- Feet: round (hair shaped into a soft rounded foot) or clean (clipped tight between the toes and around the pads).
- Sanitary area: a short clip around the rear and belly keeps things cleaner. Most dogs benefit; just know it is there.
Bring a photo. Vetstreet’s guide calls a picture the best way to show what you are asking for. A photo of your own dog after a cut you loved is better than a stranger’s show dog, because it has the same coat. Ask the groomer which parts of a reference photo will work on your dog’s coat; curly, wiry and silky coats don’t all take the same shape.
Say what you can keep up with. If you will brush twice a week, a longer, fluffier cut can work. If you won’t, ask for something shorter that won’t mat before the next visit. Our guide on how often to groom your dog covers intervals by coat type.
Blade numbers and lengths, translated
Groomers set length with clipper blades and snap-on guard combs. You don’t need to pick the tool, but knowing what the numbers mean helps you understand what you’re hearing. The key rule: the higher the blade number, the shorter the cut. Blade numbers are standard across the big clipper brands.
| Blade | Hair left (about) |
|---|---|
| #40 | 1/100 inch |
| #15 | 3/64 inch |
| #10 | 1/16 inch |
| #7F | 1/8 inch |
| #5F | 1/4 inch |
| #4F | 3/8 inch |
| #3F | 1/2 inch |
So if you want “about an inch,” that is guard-comb or scissor territory, not a bare blade. Asking in inches is still the right move: the groomer translates it into the tool. A matted coat is the exception. If the comb can’t get through, the groomer may need to go under the mats, and our post on why groomers shave matted dogs explains why that is the kind choice.
What health information should I tell the groomer?
This is the part people skip, and it matters more than the cut. Vetstreet’s guide is direct about it: if your dog has health issues that could affect grooming, be as upfront as possible. A groomer who knows can plan; a groomer who doesn’t is guessing on your dog’s body.
- Age and mobility. Senior dogs may need breaks, a non-slip mat or no long standing. See groomers for senior dogs.
- Skin conditions and allergies. Hot spots, allergies or a past reaction to a shampoo or fragrance. Ask for a hypoallergenic or unscented product if your vet has suggested one, or bring your own.
- Lumps, warts and skin tags. Point them out so the clipper avoids them.
- Recent surgery, wounds or stitches. Some areas should be left alone until healed.
- Medical conditions. Seizures, heart disease, arthritis or anything that limits how the dog can be positioned. Vetstreet gives epilepsy as an example the groomer should know about.
- Medications. Some make dogs need to urinate more, so the groomer can offer bathroom breaks.
- Vaccination status. Most salons ask for proof. Bring it.
If your dog came home itchy or red last time, mention that too, along with the blade or product used if you know it. Our post on itching after grooming covers what causes it and what to ask for instead.
What behavior should I warn the groomer about?
Groomers handle feet, faces and rear ends all day. They are good at it, and they are much better at it with a dog they were warned about. Tell them, plainly:
- Whether your dog has ever bitten or snapped, at the groomer, the vet or at home, and what set it off.
- Which jobs your dog hates: nail trims, ear cleaning, the face, the feet, the back legs.
- How your dog does with the dryer. Some dogs panic at a high-velocity dryer and do better towel-dried or with a quieter setting.
- Whether your dog is crate-anxious or reactive to other dogs in the salon.
- What works: treats, a slow start, a particular hold, a break.
A 60-second drop-off script
Write this in your phone and read it out. It takes a minute and covers what most groomers will ask anyway.
- “This is [name], [age], and she’s here for a full groom.” Hand over the vaccination record if the salon doesn’t have it.
- “Health notes: [skin issues, lumps, surgery, medications, mobility].”
- “Behavior notes: [what she hates, any bite history, dryer, crate].”
- “The cut: body about [length], legs [same / fuller], face [round / short], ears [long / trimmed], tail [plume / tidy], feet [round / clean]. Here’s a photo.”
- “I brush her [how often], so I need something that lasts [weeks].”
- “If the coat is too matted for this, please call me before you go shorter.”
- “What time should I pick up, and how will you reach me?”
That sixth line matters. Many groomers will call before a big change; asking for it in advance makes sure they do, and means no surprises at pickup.
What if the cut still isn’t right?
Say so at pickup, calmly and specifically: “the ears are shorter than I asked for,” not “I hate it.” Vetstreet’s advice is to tell the groomer or owner right away; if they can fix it, they should offer to, and if not, you should be able to book a repair visit soon. Hair that is too short can only grow, but a cut left too long or uneven can often be tidied the same day.
Be fair about where the miss came from. If the instructions were vague, a free fix is not guaranteed, which is the best argument for the script above. Once you find a groomer who gets your dog right, ask them to note the blade and comb they used in your file, and book the next visit before you leave. Wondering about the tip after all this? See how much to tip a dog groomer.
Other questions people ask
- What does “face, feet and fanny” mean at a groomer?
- It is a maintenance tidy between full grooms: the face trimmed around the eyes, the feet neatened, and the sanitary area clipped, with the body coat left alone. It is usually cheaper and quicker than a full haircut.
- Is a teddy bear cut the same as a puppy cut?
- Not exactly, though salons use both loosely. “Teddy bear” usually describes a round, full face, while “puppy cut” usually describes an even length all over the body, so a dog can have both at once. Ask the groomer to describe what they mean by each.
- Should I tell the groomer which blade to use?
- You can, if you know what worked before, but asking for a finished length in inches is usually better. The groomer chooses the tool based on the coat on the day, especially if it has tangles.
- Should I stay while my dog is groomed?
- Ask the salon. Many dogs settle faster once the owner leaves, and some salons don’t allow owners in the grooming area for safety. If your dog is anxious, ask whether they offer a shorter first visit or an express appointment.
Find it on Find My Kennel
- Find a dog groomer near you
Compare local groomers by the services they list.
- What’s on a dog grooming menu
Know which extras are separate line items before you ask for them.
- Your puppy’s first groom
When to start, and how to make the first visit a good one.
- How much to tip a dog groomer
The norm, and when to tip more.
Sources
- Vetstreet (Kim Campbell Thornton): Learn how to get the best results from your dog groomer
- MoeGo: Dog grooming terminology (puppy cut, FFF, round vs clean feet)
- Battle Born Blade Sharpening: Clipper blade sizes chart (Andis, Oster, Wahl)
This article is general information, not veterinary advice. Ask your vet about your own dog.